2002-10-08

North - Day 28


During breakfast a wave broke against the rocks, sending a huge white plume fifty feet in the air. At first, massive hills on my right kept me in shadow for distant stretches while bright light shone on the water. The whitecaps of large rolling waves blew streams of mist for 20 or 30 yards, forming rainbows. 55 mph winds challenged my balance and foot placement like the most difficult trail. The road passed several interesting village inlets that offered some shelter and sunlight. Anse Pleureuse provided a big morning meal. In Manche-d’Épée the road finally turned inland, where a daredevil driver nearly clipped me from behind. At Madaleine a grocery manager forwarded me to Paradis de Jude et Diane in Rivière-la-Madaleine. The elements had drained the force from my legs and mind. I slept for an hour, feasted for dinner, and then slept another ten hours.

A lady in a convenience store mentioned the winds. Then she wrote “90 km” on a piece of paper for clarity, because in French you say “60-30” to mean “90.” People paid me compliments, “You must be in good shape.” I just smiled and shrugged my shoulders, thinking that chest congestion could still stop me. Only two months earlier I had been sick and overweight, so I hoped they were right.

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